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Old 04-20-2011, 11:48 PM   #1
b-bottom
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soldering iron

What kind of soldering iron and solder do you guys use to work on your music gear?
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Old 04-20-2011, 11:51 PM   #2
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This is the one I have. I love it, pure and simple.
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Old 04-20-2011, 11:58 PM   #3
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I ONLY use High-Tech Rosin-core 2% Silver-bearing solder.

0.022 diameter 62/36/2 is the best, by far.

Right now I'm holding a 1.5 oz spool, RS part # 64-013

For a soldering iron, I usually go with 30 watt, but my choices vary from 15 to 230 watts. The iron varies a lot by application--soldering SMD transistors or DIP16 ICs will require a very different iron from, say, a bass's tone pot.
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Old 04-21-2011, 12:01 AM   #4
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I ONLY use High-Tech Rosin-core 2% Silver-bearing solder.

0.022 diameter 62/36/2 is the best, by far.

Right now I'm holding a 1.5 oz spool, RS part # 64-013

For a soldering iron, I usually go with 30 watt, but my choices vary from 15 to 230 watts. The iron varies a lot by application--soldering SMD transistors or DIP16 ICs will require a very different iron from, say, a bass's tone pot.
So...why don't you go ahead and assume that the application would be for guitar-type work, and then make a suggestion
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Old 04-21-2011, 12:44 AM   #5
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Yours looks good, but honestly, I have absolutely no complaints about the one I got for $17 at Radio Shack. I don't see it online now, but if this one is similar in quality to my RS ones, I'd highly recommend it.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...odsInSession=1
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Old 04-21-2011, 01:24 AM   #6
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Tin/lead. 60/40% solder
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Old 04-21-2011, 01:37 AM   #7
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This is the one I have. I love it, pure and simple.
Same here.
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Old 04-21-2011, 01:48 AM   #8
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Same here.
Do you use it on auto stuff as well?
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Old 04-21-2011, 05:11 AM   #9
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I use a 300 watt Weller gun for almost everything. I have a couple of 30 watt irons laying around, but the gun is so much faster and it's precise enough for everything but component level work. Actually, I rebuilt two of the crossovers in my beat to shit EV floor monitors with the gun, so I guess I use it for everything.

And yes, it works just fine as long as you aren't a retard. Our band's rig has a bunch of joints that I soldered with the gun, from XLR cables to speaker jacks and we have over a hundred gigs on that gear without an issue.
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Old 04-21-2011, 05:14 AM   #10
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So...why don't you go ahead and assume that the application would be for guitar-type work, and then make a suggestion
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Old 04-21-2011, 05:21 AM   #11
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I've got an ancient Weller station that dad brought home from his job at Litton sometime around 1977. The plug for the iron was fucked up and it was being thrown out. I cut off the plug and socket, tied a knot in the cable as a strain relief, and have used it ever since...same tip.

I used to love the 300w Weller gun dad had, and a few years ago I inherited one when Kim's dad passed. Something's wrong with it though, so I need to check it out. I replaced the tip but it won't tin properly.

Solder? I've still got three or four rolls of Kester '44' in different sizes, that I've also had for 30+ years. I don't waste solder, I guess....
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Old 04-21-2011, 11:52 AM   #12
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This is the one I have. I love it, pure and simple.
Same here. I've built two JTM45s and a 5e3..............sometimes I just burn sh*t with it for fun!
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Old 04-21-2011, 11:56 AM   #13
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This is what I have....

http://www.amazon.com/Weller-SP40LK-...3404933&sr=8-5

it does me good. Gets hot fast and stays hot.... unlike the radioshack one that I struggled with for years.
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Old 04-21-2011, 12:42 PM   #14
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b-bottom said... View Post
What kind of soldering iron and solder do you guys use to work on your music gear?
Quote:
Ace of Bass said... View Post
I ONLY use High-Tech Rosin-core 2% Silver-bearing solder.

0.022 diameter 62/36/2 is the best, by far.

Right now I'm holding a 1.5 oz spool, RS part # 64-013

For a soldering iron, I usually go with 30 watt, but my choices vary from 15 to 230 watts. The iron varies a lot by application--soldering SMD transistors or DIP16 ICs will require a very different iron from, say, a bass's tone pot.
Quote:
willsellout said... View Post
So...why don't you go ahead and assume that the application would be for guitar-type work, and then make a suggestion
Quote:
CraigV said... View Post
Well, obviously, I was talking about the difference between the tone pot on a P-bass, and the surface mount IC chips on the active preamp inside my....ah, screw it. I totally missed this part:
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do you guys use to work on your music gear?
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Old 04-21-2011, 12:44 PM   #15
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This is the one I have. I love it, pure and simple.
That's the one I have too. Great machine. Can't believe how much they've come down in price though. About fucking time they stopped treating this shit like it's boutique somehow.
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Old 04-21-2011, 12:46 PM   #16
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Tin/lead. 60/40% solder
Those fucking SUCK!! My old roomie bought one just like that and in no time at all it fell apart, burning his hand at the same time. The plastic that holds the 3 screws that attach the iron to the handle either melts, dropping them, or expands, dropping them, and subsequently the hot part on you.
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Old 04-21-2011, 01:11 PM   #17
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The plastic that holds the 3 screws that attach the iron to the handle either melts, dropping them, or expands, dropping them, and subsequently the hot part on you.
Rule #1 of soldering: Solder, and soldering tools get fucking hot, and gravity always works.
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Old 04-21-2011, 01:19 PM   #18
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Rule #1 of soldering: Solder, and soldering tools get fucking hot, and gravity always works.
And tools intended to get very hot should not have plastic components so near the heat source.
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Old 04-21-2011, 01:32 PM   #19
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http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WLC100-...3410662&sr=8-9


http://www.redco.com/shopexd.asp?id=986
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Old 04-21-2011, 01:32 PM   #20
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And tools intended to get very hot should not have plastic components so near the heat source.
So that's why my super-lightweight polystyrene TIG welder failed to sell....
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Old 04-21-2011, 04:39 PM   #21
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Those fucking SUCK!! My old roomie bought one just like that and in no time at all it fell apart, burning his hand at the same time. The plastic that holds the 3 screws that attach the iron to the handle either melts, dropping them, or expands, dropping them, and subsequently the hot part on you.
I have had mine for almost two years and I have never had any problems with it at all. It has had heaps of use too
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Old 04-21-2011, 08:22 PM   #22
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I have the one from Weber's. It's worked pretty well so far.

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Old 04-21-2011, 09:56 PM   #23
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Do you use it on auto stuff as well?
I do. It works great for splicing lighter-gauge wires and stuff like that; that's about the extent of my use for it in that context.
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Old 04-22-2011, 12:10 AM   #24
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kester 60/40 or 44 or whatever and a pace pps-15a.replacement parts for the pace have gotten prohibitively expensive ( 87 buck for a teflon retaining nut? really?.... really?) and if i can't get a deal on a metcal or old weller, i'm gonna pick up a weller wes51 and go on about my life.
as long as you have access to good quality tips and there's some modicum of temperature stability/recovery, just about any iron will work fine for smaller instrument jobs.The only time other issues come into play is if you're burning it all day every day or doing hundreds of joints an hour - if you're not, get a cheap weller or hakko adjustable station and practice on your technique( it's way more important in the grand scheme of things).
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Old 04-22-2011, 07:38 AM   #25
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I have this:

http://www.amazon.com/Weller-SP40LK-...3404933&sr=8-5



...plus this:

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...rodsPerPage=60



It works well enough for now.
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Old 04-23-2011, 03:01 PM   #26
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My setup looks exactly like BeeTL's but my iron is cheaper... like $4.99 at a good electronics store near me - the kind of place that Radio Shack was back in the 50's.

25-30 watts for regular guitar work, and I keep a slightly higher-wattage one around for vol/tone pot body grounding. Works fine for me, it's all in the touch, not in the fancy equipment.
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Old 04-23-2011, 05:42 PM   #27
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I salvaged on of these from the trash at work:



http://www.okinternational.com/product_soldering/sp200

Very very nice. Especially for the price I paid.
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Old 04-23-2011, 09:56 PM   #28
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I salvaged on of these from the trash at work:



http://www.okinternational.com/product_soldering/sp200

Very very nice. Especially for the price I paid.

ummm...
can i volunteer you to salvage one of those out of the trash at your work for me?

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Old 04-23-2011, 10:37 PM   #29
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The part that gets me the worst is this:
I you haven't used the iron in a while, or you're trying to recondition one that's got a tip that's pretty F'd up. Cleaning and re-tinning just isn't enough some times.
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Old 04-24-2011, 10:19 PM   #30
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I learned to solder in high school with one of these:

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